Stories and Pictures

I've been taking my camera around with me the last two days.  Because I actually have seen many beautiful and interesting things in this big city (unlike once I get to my little Yalova-town?), I'm just going to post a few of my favorites and give them a little context.  Enjoy---Afiyet olsun! (Turkish for "Bon Appetit!")

Friday Night:

After class on Friday, I hit the town with some new friends in pursuit of a jazz bar "near our hotel." The bar ended up being about a 45 minute walk away but we had a really nice time going both ways.  Along the way, I snapped this picture of Kocatepe Camii ("Cojatepe" mosque). I haven't been inside yet, but I can't wait to. Though it's style is reminiscent of other much older Ottoman mosques in Istanbul/all over Turkey, Kocatepe is actually a young mosque which was built in twenty years, starting in 1967. 

We were headed to the jazz bar to support this smiling musician, Devin.  A Fulbright from Evergreen, and a Northwesterner (Coeur d'Alene)  Devin loves to play harmonica. He led the way to Kafta, our jazz bar and wow-ed the crowd with his rendition of something familiar. Don't know what.  Meanwhile, James (left corner of this picture), 5 other Fulbrighters and I drank Efes', water, and chatted. It's so fun getting to know everyone.  All of my fellows have such interesting histories; we come from such different places and backgrounds, but we're all so excited for this year and to learn more about Turkey!

Saturday:

My lunch table--such lovely women! (From left, front: Aly, Margot, Whitney, Leah, quiet girl whose name I can never remember, me, Kat.) To celebrate the end of our Turkish language lessons (?), Fulbright took us out for a big group meal at a traditional Turkish restaurant in Ankara's old city. Another affair with 4 or 5 courses, here we're enjoying the traditional Turkish bread baked by 4 women downstairs. 

Our view from the old restaurant.   It's hard to make out, especially in this small form, but we could see both Anit Kabir and Luna Park (Ankara's huge manicured private park/amusement park).  Luna Park is on the short list of things I hope to do before leaving this city. 

Post-lunch scramble. Notice all of the dried fruits and vegetables hanging from the ceiling. Apparently this restaurant was originally a extended-family Ottoman residence. Some of the rooms were still furnished as they had been in the late 19th century, but this attic room had been turned into a dining room for yabancilar (foreigners) like us. We loved it and the view!

Our next stop was the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. Here, Kat Margot and I smile in front of my favorite piece--a large Hittite rendition of Gilgamesh. Licking Kat's elbow is a large but friendly lion.

After learning everything about every ancient pot in Anatolia, we hiked up to the Ankara citadel.  An old castle, this seems to have been the "medina" of sorts where Ankarites fled when under siege.  It was amazing how different this part of the city felt.  Just like in Fes, I felt like I had left behind the stresses of a bustling city within moments of walking into this fortified neighborhood.  Kids were biking down the cobblestone streets, and tourists as well as Turks took their time enjoying the afternoon warmth.

On my way up to the citadel, I had to pause for this picture in honor of Tuba. I'm not sure if this Bakkalci (little store owner) is actually related to my Haller-Martin clan, but I thought it was a fun picture anyway. Bakkals are very common in Turkey. There're where you can buy fruit, bread, drinks, ice cream, and sometimes even have your kids babysat for free.    

View from the citadel.  What a fantastic afternoon. Bonus game: "I spy 200 minarets--can you find them, too?" Hint: some are small, and brick, some are large a white. Many lie within the walls of the old city, others border the desert.  This picture really shows how densely built Ankara is, even as it boldly sprawls over hills and valleys--right up to the arid wilderness (still spotted by Turkish flags). 

Fulbrighters with their feet dangling over the citadel wall, taking in the view. 

Walking down from the citadel, we went through a great little neighborhood and shopping area that specialized in Turkish antiques. The light was beautiful and I was surprised by how Swiss (?) the narrow streets and old white-and-wood buildings felt.

Sunday:

Today was our day of rest, but it was also the 10th anniversary of 9/11/2001.  Many people in my group and I attended a remembrance/memorial ceremony at the Ambassador's residence. Here, the Marine color guard and a foreign service person prepare the grounds. 

Turkey has horse chestnuts, too! Don't know how they're coming on Flanders St. in Portland, but I saw these and thought of home.

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I miss you all and love you very much.  I hope that each of you had a safe and peaceful day of remembrance. Sizi seviyorum,

-Annika